The medieval Sedlec Ossuary, a few miles outside of Kutna Hora, Czech Republic has an impressive and macabre interior. Dan Cruickshank visited Sedlec for the 'Death' episode in his most recent series, Adventures in Architectureand you can now watch the segment, online, over at YouTube.
Throughout history, Sedlec Ossuary has seen its fair share of ups and downs. However, there has been a recent resurgence in interest, no doubt in part for its amazing decor and in some part, plain old morbid curiosity.
Sedlec was a small monastic site up until 1278. When the abbot of the Cistercian monastery brought back soil he had collected in Jerusalem and scattered it on the monastery’s small burial ground, the act was believed to have ‘sanctified’ the ground, transforming the area into an exclave of the Holy Land.
Pilgrimage to holy sites was a way of life to medieval Christians. Not only was it considered to ensure spiritual and physical well-being but it was also believed to help reduce the amount of time spent in Purgatory, the transitory place that souls stay in before moving on to Paradise. Regardless of whether or not they had lived a ’good’ life on Earth.
A visit to the Holy Land was the most important pilgrimage one could make - therefore this small plot became a sought-after final resting place for the devout, ensuring a swift passage through Purgatory. This in turn brought wealth to the monastery, a chapel and cathedral was built on the proceeds from pilgrims who paid the monastery for the privilege of being buried in the 'Holy Land'.
Over the course of time, the ground became saturated with graves (the Black Death which swept through the area during the 1340s added to the numbers, too) and as the monastery could not extend the graveyard, they devised a solution to the overcrowding by rotating burials. As long as a thigh bone and the skull was kept intact, it was believed that God would be able to resurrect the dead when Judgement Day occurred and the exhumed remains were moved to an ossuary.
The site was badly affected by the Hussite Wars (the followers of Jan Hus, a reformist cleric, battling against the Roman Catholic majority) during the 1420s. The chapel was raided in 1421, with the nearby cathedral being razed by fire. When the War finally ended in the mid 1430s, Sedlec was left abandoned and while a reduced monastery strived on, it never returned to its former status as an important pilgrimage and burial site.
In 1511, a monk began to sort and arrange through the numerous remains that lay in the ossuary and monastic buildings - an estimated 40,000 but Sedlec was to carry on in relative insignificance until the 17th century, when the Hussite reformists (who had gone on to become part of the Protestant reformation) were defeated by Roman Catholic forces at the Battle of the White Mountain. Roman Catholicism reclaimed authority across Bohemia, the monastery at Sedlec was re-established, new buildings were built and the cathedral’s new Baroque/Gothic inspired interior was designed by the reknowned Bohemian architect, Jan Santini.
When Santini discovered the chapel stacked with the bones assembled there in the 16th century, he came up with the idea to rearrange them into six piles (each ten metres high) to represent the bells that would toll on Judgement Day. In 1740, another designer created four obelisks within the crypt and decorated these with skulls, topped with carved cherubs blowing trumpets, again symbolising the trumpets that will call during the Last Judgement.
The Cistercian monastery was eventually dissolved in 1780 and the grounds were bought by the Schwartzenberg family. In 1860, the wealthy family brought in a local woodcarver (Frantisec Rint) to redesign the chapel. He disassembled two of Santini’s bells, bleached the bones and created some of Sedlec’s most memorable bone art.
A large, swagged chandelier constructed out of bones - incorporating an example of every bone found within the human body, a symbolic chalice, monstrance and the Schwartzenberg coat of arms (below).
detail from the coat of arms showing a crow picking out the eye of a captured Muslim Turk
From the amazing bone art in Sedlec Ossuary I'll now follow on with a few more fascinating examples. It isn’t an exhaustive list by any means and I will no doubt expand upon it again, showcasing other ossuaries and charnel houses not listed here, some time in the future. If you hadn't guessed, all the illustrations on this page are by yours truly and as a side note, if you find this article interesting then keep an eye out for a forthcoming entry. One of the Cabinet of Wonders bloggers will take you through his recent visit to a bone crypt in the south of England (having sent the rest of the team green-eyed with envy at his assignment!).
Bachkovo Monastery, Bulgaria
The monastery, located in the Rhodopi Planina Mountains, 11 km south of Asenovgrad in Bulgaria, was founded in 1081 AD by Grigori and Apazi Pakuriani having been granted control over the land by the Byzantine emperor Alexios Komnenos. It is one of the most ancient monasteries in the Balkans.
The two-storey ossuary, dating to the late 11th century, has a series of historically important murals signed by Yoan Iveropulets (or Yuan the Georgian).
Memorials to those who lost their lives during the murderous Khmer Rouge regime famously incorporate skulls collected from mass graves. At Tuol Seng Genocide Museum, skulls rest in cabinets having once been used to depict a large map of Cambodia. This was dismantled in 2002 having served as reminder of what had once happened in the building - a former high school which was then used as a high security prison by the Khmer Rouge.
At Choeung Ek, near Phnom Penh, a clear-sided Buddhist stupa (reliquary) comprised of 5,000 skulls, acts as another reminder to the tragedy that befell the Cambodian people.
Capela dos Ossos
The Chapel of Bones in Evora, Portugal is another monastic ossuary which was built in the 16th century by the Franciscans. Inscribed above the entrance is the solemn reminder to visitors of their own mortality, Nós ossos que aqui estamos pelos vossos esperamos (Our bones that are here, for yours await). Indeed, skulls are just one symbol associated with memento mori (latin for ‘Remember that you must die’) that remind us human existence is transitory and death is inevitable.
The walls are studded with skulls and bones set into cement and among the 5000 skeletons, there are two desiccated skeletons (one of which, a child) that hang from chains.
During the 16th century the Capuchin monks of Palermo, Sicily discovered during an exhumation of one of their brethren, that the body they were disinterring had somehow become mummified. This inspired the monks to mummify one of their recent dead - a Brother Silvestro - and to put the body on public display.
Some local families began to ask for the same treatment of their deceased loved ones and the catacombs soon began to fill with various mummified bodies in a variety of poses and dress. The process of mummification: the dead were laid out within the catacombs in order to dehydrate. After this, the bodies were washed with vinegar and were either embalmed or sealed in glass cases.
When the process was completed, they were dressed and the placed on display in the catacombs. Velasquez is a famous resident and the catacombs themselves are separated into sections so that there are areas for women, men, children, priests. Even professional occupations are segregated into different sections.
In 1881, following the passing of a law by the Italian government, the monks were prevented from interring people although in 1920, the body of Rosalia Lombardo was given special permission to be placed in the catacombs. Rosalia, who was two-years-old when she died, was embalmed by a local doctor and her glass-covered remains are often referred to as the Sleeping Beauty.
The practice of interring the dead at Fontanelle Cemetery, located in a hillside cave system in the Materdei region of Naples, began in the early 1500s. In 1656, the caves were used as a mass burial ground following an outbreak of the plague. Sometime during the 17th century, floods washed a good number of the bodies down the hill and into the streets. The remains were re-interred and the caves were a mass of jumbled body parts.
In 1872, a Father Gaetano Barbati oversaw the disinterring of Fontanelle’s remains and began cataloguing the numerous body parts which were then placed in piles, boxes and racks. Shortly after this, a following sprang up of people referred to as the ‘cult of devotion to the skulls’. These people would adopt skulls, even naming them. The adopted skulls were cleaned regularly and were offered prayers, flowers and candles in the hope that this devotion towards the nameless dead would help speed up their passage through purgatory, onto heaven.
Hallstatt’s Beinhaus (Bone House) was a grim solution to a grave problem. The limited space in Hallstatt’s Roman Catholic churchyard meant that a rotation system had to be introduced for burials. The charnel-house is now a repository for the skull and bones of those who had been exhumed in order to make room for others. While there are nearly 1200 skulls in the Beinhaus, some 600 or so have been decorated with the deceased’s name, birth and death dates. Male skulls have ivy motifs: female skulls, roses. Exhumations ceased during the 60s (coinciding with the wider acceptance of cremation) but the Beinhaus still endures.
The 13th century crypt at Rothwell’s Holy Trinity Church, Northamptonshire holds the remains of 1500 individuals, some of whom may have been interred into the crypt in around 1580, when a hospital was built on an old burial ground. Skulls are displayed on shelves around the crypt’s walls while the thigh bones are kept in stacks within the middle of the crypt.
In 1809, after defeating the Serbian insurrection army at the battle on Cegar Hill, the Turkish pasha and commander of the town of Niš ordered a tower to be built to house the skulls of 952 Serb soldiers. Their scalps, stuffed with cotton, were then sent on to Constantinople to the Sultan, Mahmud II.
At 3 metres high, the Skull Tower was intended as a warning to the Serbian people to prevent any further insurrection. In 1892, a chapel was built over the Tower, which now protects the last 58 remaining skulls.
National Geographic has an interesting article online upon the apparent re-discovery of papers outlining the 'mysterious' embalming formula used by Alfredo Salafia.
http://tinyurl.com/b8c3x2
Formalin, zinc salts, alcohol, salicylic acid, and glycerin were all used in the process and it appears to have been the inclusion of zinc which caused Rosalia's body to become so well preserved.
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